Mountain Delicacies

From September/October 2006 Issue
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How to Mix Flour and Dog

"The Place Setting" offers up traditional mountain recipes.
Pull up a chair.


BY SKIP HIGGINS


 
 
Mushroom Man
Tempting. Higgins' dog contributed less-than-helpful efforts toward the finished product.
Though I was taught never to read at the table, I broke the rule with author Fred W. Sauceman, and his latest book on mountain dining, “The Place Setting.” It reads almost like an adventure novel, providing me an interesting and often nostalgic tour into some of the storied though lesser-known restaurants and recipes along the Blue Ridge.

It was all in there – including the great barbecue to be had at Ridgewood Barbecue in Bluff City, Tenn., and why I’d never get that recipe; a discussion on the possible role of deviled eggs in strengthening race relations.

And, of course, the recipes. One from Janette Carter, late of the famous musical Carter Family. And one that’s my own personal favorite, passed down to Fred Sauceman’s wife, Jill, by her grandmother – “Grandma Nevada’s Apple Stack Cake.”

Jill Sauceman was kind enough to talk me through the trials of my very first bake-from-scratch experience. She listened (perhaps laughed) as I whined about the mess my navy blue shirt had become while mixing the
flour, offering that “White Lily” flour had been held as the best for baking by her grandmother. Not of course that it mattered to my shirt or to our dog, now playing in the spilled flour on my kitchen floor.

Kidding aside, the finished cake tasted of the hidden richness of simpler times on a country porch, going well with either strong coffee or sassafras
tea. I certainly didn’t leave the table hungry.

“The Place Setting,” Fred Sauceman, copyright 2006, Mercer University Press, Macon, Ga. 478/301-2880, www.mupress.org.




 

Featured Recipes:


Grandma Nevada's Apple Stack Cake




INGREDIENTS:

1 pound home dried tart apples: not store-bought dried apples
1/2 cup sugar 1/2 cup sorghum molasses
1 egg 1/2 cup buttermilk
1 tsp. baking powder
1 tsp. baking soda
1/3 cup shortening
approx 4-1/2 cups flour,
plus a bit for dusting the board when rolling each layer.

METHOD:

Cover the home-dried apples with water and cook over medium low heat, adding water until the apples are soft enough to begin breaking up when stirred. Cool and run the apples through a sieve or food processor/blender to produce a smooth sauce. In this “most mountain of deserts” it should be remembered that spices such as cinnamon, ginger or vanilla were seldom if ever available so keeping faithfully to just the natural flavors of these ingredients actually makes this a unique, healthy and very special treat!

Combine the remainder of the ingredients until the resultant dough is the consistence of stiff cookie dough – kneading by hand was my experience for best result. Separate dough into five to seven balls and roll each ball to a 1/8- or 1/4-inch thickness and cut into 8- or 9-inch rounds. Prick each layer with a fork, making a design if you wish, and sprinkle each layer with granulated sugar.

Bake on a greased cookie sheet at 400 degrees until golden brown – about eight minutes in my case. Cool and then place the first layer on a cake plate spreading a layer of the cooked applesauce to within half an inch from the edge. Alternate the layers of cake with applesauce leaving the best looking cake layer for the top. Cover the entire cake and store in a cool place or refrigerator several days before serving to allow the applesauce to penetrate and blend with the cake layers.


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Pumpkin Muffins




INGREDIENTS:

1/2 cup softened margarine
1/3 cup sorghum
1 egg, beaten
1/2 tsp. salt
1 1/2 tsps. cinnamon
3/4 cup brown sugar
1 cup pumpkin
1 3/4 cups flour
1 tsp. baking soda
1/2 tsp. nutmeg

METHOD:

Beat margarine, brown sugar and sorghum until creamy. Add pumpkin and beaten egg. Mix flour, salt. soda, cinnamon and nutmeg very well and add to creamed mixture. Pour into greased muffin pan. Bake at 400 degrees for 15 minutes. Makes one dozen.

for sorghum:
Johnson's Sweet Sorghum
785 Providence Rd.
Limestone, Tenn.
423/257-4238
Arland and Novella Johnson started their sorgum business as a hobby in 1982.

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Sheri Castle's Killed Lettuce




INGREDIENTS:

6 generous handfuls (about 12 cups) fresh leaf lettuce
2 green onions, thinly sliced
6 slices thick-sliced applewood smoked bacon, cut into 1-inch pieces
1/4 cup cider vinegar
2 tsp. sugar
salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

METHOD:

Wash and dry the lettuce thoroughly. Place the lettuce and onions in a serving bowl. Fry the bacon in a skillet over medium heat until crisp. Remove the bacon with a slotted spoon and let it drain on paper towels, leaving the bacon drippings warm in the skillet over low heat. Add the vinegar and sugar to the bacon drippings, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Increase the heat to high and cook the mixture until it is very hot but not smoking. Pour the hot dressing over the lettuce and onions, tossing to coat and wilt the greens. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve immediately - this won't keep. Makes four servings.

Killed, or "kilt" lettuce, is an old Appalachian dish. This particular recipe comes from Castle's grandmother, who made it in Zionville, N.C. during Castle's growing-up years. Castle is now a culinary instructor and food writer in Chapel Hill, N.C.

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