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"An
Extraordinary Woman,
And Equal To Any Emergency"
Mary Draper Ingles' Return To
Virginia's New River Valley
BY JOAN VANNORSDALL SCHROEDER
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The
cabin of William and Mary Draper Ingles. It
was built at Ingles Ferry, Va., sometime after
the 1755 return of Mary Draper Ingles after her
800-mile walk home from west of Cincinnati. |
Her
journey -- some 800 miles on foot over a
six-week period in 1755 -- was marked by near
starvation as well as more immediate threats to
her life. But return Mary Draper Ingles did,
arriving back home naked, skeletal and
white-haired despite her age of just 23 years. |
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November, l755; a skiff of snow dusted the
ground of Adam Harmon's cornfield near
Eggleston's Springs, Va. Harmon and his two sons
were gathering the last of their corn when they
heard a faint "hallo." And then
another.
Instinctively, the Harmons
reached for their guns. It was the second year
of the French and Indian War, and the Shawnees
weren't to be trusted. Five months earlier,
they'd swooped down onto the tiny nearby
settlement of Draper's Meadows, murdering four,
wounding two, and taking five hostages.
"Hallo!" It was
a woman's voice, pitifully weak, but oddly
familiar to German settler Adam Harmon.
"Surely, that is Mary
Inglis!" he's reported to have exclaimed.
It was, indeed, Mary
Draper Ingles calling for help, but not the same
robust young woman who had been carried off by
the Shawnees five months earlier. Naked and
skeletal, her hair nearly white, Mary Ingles was
more dead than alive.
Harmon carried her into
his cabin, wrapped her in blankets, bathed her
swollen feet in warm water, and fed her small
amounts of fresh venison and bear meat.
The story of endurance and
courage that Mary Draper Ingles told in the days
following is astonishing. Her saga is the
subject of Alexander Thom's best-selling novel,
"Follow the River"; Earl Hobson Smith
wrote an outdoor drama, "The Long Way
Home," still produced each summer in
Radford; ABC made it the basis of a
made-for-television movie which aired early in
l995.
And while some of the
story's details, told and retold over the past
240 years, are understandably hazy, the essence
of what Mary Draper Ingles did -- her 42-day,
800-mile escape from her Shawnee captors across
a mountainous wilderness -- couldn't be more
clear.
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The
Palisades.
It was in a field above this rock formation,
along the New River near Eggleston, Va., that
Mary Draper Ingles was found in 1755.
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The Drapers and Ingles
families settled on Horseshoe Bend of the New
River in l748. Now part of the Virginia Tech
campus, the fertile land lay a few miles north
of the old Indian Road through the main valley
stretching between the Alleghenies and the Blue
Ridge. In his classic book "Sketches of
Virginia," William Henry Foote lyrically
describes Draper's Meadows:
On top of the main Ridge
of Virginia mountains, the meadows presented a
beautiful extent of rolling country, very
fertile, and healthy, and containing within its
bounds abundant springs of pure water, some of
which find their way to the Atlantic through the
James, and the Chesapeake Bay, and others that
mingle their streams with the Ohio and
Mississippi and the Gulf of Mexico.É The
'meadows' were glades with few trees or marshes,
and fed herds of buffalo and deer.
To George and Eleanor
Draper, Mary's parents, this land must have
seemed like paradise. Irish immigrants, the
Drapers had arrived in Philadelphia in l729.
Along with the teenaged Ingles brothers, William
and John, the Drapers were the first settlers to
scale the Alleghenies, which were, in the l740s,
according to John P. Hale in
"Trans-Allegheny Pioneers," the
"limit and western barrier of civilization
and discovery."
In 1750, 18-year-old Mary
Draper and 21-year-old William Ingles were
married in the first white wedding west of the
Alleghenies. Soon thereafter their son, Thomas,
became the first white child born west of the
Alleghenies.
Being first -- setting
precedents -- seems to have been the stuff of
which Mary Draper Ingles was made.
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Mary Draper Ingles' journey.
| The
red line shows her movement west as
a captive of the Shawnee Indians, and
the blue line her return east with
"the old Dutch woman." The
entire trip took place in the summer and
fall of 1755. |
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| It was a warm
Sunday July morning in l755 when a band of
Shawnee warriors swooped down on Draper's
Meadows. They left behind four dead -- Colonel
James Patton (who fought valiantly with his
ever-present broadsword), Mrs. George Draper
(Mary's widowed mother), Casper Barger (an
elderly widower whose head was carried away in a
cloth bag and gruesomely displayed at the next
settlement), and John Draper's infant son (who
was "brained" against Ingles' log
cabin walls). The Shawnees also took five
hostages: Henry Lenard, Bettie Draper (John's
wife), four-year-old Thomas and two-year-old
George Ingles (George and Mary's sons), and, of
course, Mary herself.
Mary's husband was in his
fields harvesting wheat when he heard the shots
and screams. Running back to the cabin, the
unarmed William encountered two Indians. Foote
gives this account of the chase:
Two stout Indians
discovered him and rushed at him with their
tomahawks. He fled to the woods; they pursued,
at a little distance from each other, one on
each side of Mr. Inglis. He perceived that the
Indians were gaining upon him, and attempting to
jump over a fallen tree he fell, and gave
himself up for lost. Owing to the underbrush,
the pursuers did not see him fall, and passed by
on each side of him as he lay in the bushes. In
a few moments he was upon his feet and escaped
in another direction.
Carrying away food and
tools, as well as their hostages, the Shawnees
took their time traveling to the New River. The
underbrush was thick, the forest virgin, and who
was left to pursue them?
It is difficult to fully
imagine the numb terror of the hostages as they
were prodded through the forest, having
witnessed the bloody massacre of their family
and friends and knowing that their fate could be
the same. Bettie Draper's right arm had been
shattered by a musket ball, and Mary was nine
months pregnant.
Maybe.
The two primary accounts
of Ingles' kidnapping and subsequent escape
present conflicting views on the matter of
Mary's pregnancy. The manuscript by John Ingles,
Sr., the son of Mary and George who was born 10
years after his mother's return from captivity,
makes no mention of a baby born on the trail.
But great-grandson John P. Hale's account of the
first white settlements west of the Alleghenies,
"Trans-Atlantic Pioneers," makes it
clear that Mary Ingles gave birth to a daughter
several days after her abduction.
Roberta Ingles Steele, the
great-great-great-granddaughter of Mary Draper
Ingles, is hesitant to offer a definitive answer
to the baby question.
"It was about time
(two years between children was a natural
spacing) for another baby," she concedes.
"On the other hand, I believe that Mary
would have told her son John about the baby if
there had been one." Steele points out that
if there had been a baby born on the trail, it
most certainly would have died. "Did she or
didn't she have a baby? There's no historical
record to answer the question."
Birth or no birth, Mary
Ingles was, by all accounts, a strong and tough
woman, who won the respect of her Shawnee
captors by calmly controlling her frightened
children and efficiently nursing her
sister-in-law's broken arm with poultices of
comfrey root and deer fat. The Shawnees allowed
Mary to roam the woods unattended looking for
herbs, knowing that she would not desert her two
sons and injured sister-in-law.
Down the New River they
traveled north (the New flows south to north and
crosses the mountains from east to west, cutting
through every ridge of the Alleghenies), until
they reached the Kanawha, where they made camp
at a salt spring. There the captives were put to
work making salt by boiling water -- in their
own (stolen) kettles.
During the month it took
the Indians and their captives to reach the
Shawnee village on the banks of the Scioto and
Ohio rivers, Mary Draper Ingles was busy
memorizing landmarks, tying knots in a string to
keep count of the days of travel, and, always,
noting that they followed rivers.
What waited for the
prisoners at the Indian village wasn't pleasant.
Together with white prisoners from other raids,
Bettie Draper and Henry Lenard were made to run
the gauntlet -- pass between two parallel lines
of Indians wielding clubs and whips. The best
they could hope for was reaching the end
scratched and bruised and humiliated; the worst
possible outcome was death.
Again, Mary Ingles was
treated well, being spared the running of the
gauntlet. She determined to put herself to good
use, hoping to keep her children with her.
She was disappointed.
Four-year-old Thomas was taken to a village near
Detroit; young George was traded to a family and
disappeared deeper into the Ohio wilderness.
Bettie Draper "went up the region of
Chillicothe," adopted by an Indian chief
who had recently lost his own daughter.
With the arrival of two
French traders at the Shawnee camp, Mary was put
to work sewing shirts from the checked fabric
they traded to the Indians. In return she earned
blankets for herself and for her fellow captive,
"the old Dutch Woman."
What despair Mary must
have felt when she and the Old Dutch Woman were
taken farther north to Big Bone Lick, near
present-day Cincinnati, again to make salt for
the Indians. Some 150 miles farther away from
her husband, to an eerie place where mastodon
bones protruded from swampy, sulfurous, salty
water. Two more firsts for Mary Draper Ingles:
She became the first white person to make salt
west of Kanawha; the first white woman to enter
what are currently Ohio, Indiana and Kentucky.
It was here that Mary
resolved to make an escape. Deprived of her
children, she convinced the Old Dutch Woman that
it would be better to die in the wilderness than
to live a life of slavery. One early October
afternoon, the two women were allowed to forage
the woods for nuts and wild grapes. With two
blankets and a single tomahawk, in tattered
clothes, they disappeared into the forest.
Mary and the Old Dutch
Woman faced incredible adversity. Theirs would
be a 500-mile trip (excluding any backtracking)
on foot through nearly impenetrable forests.
They couldn't use Indian paths for fear of
re-capture and, then, torture and burning at the
stake. Winter was fast approaching. Their only
hope was to stay as close as possible to the
Ohio River, following it to the confluence with
the Kanawha and, then, the New River.
Unfortunately, neither woman could swim.
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The
Ingles Ferry Tavern.
Roberta Ingles Steele and her husband Paul
Steele still own the tavern, near Ingles Ferry,
that was operated by William and Mary Ingles in
the 18th century.
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The trip lasted 43 days.
The sameness of those days must have been
numbing, the setbacks innumerable, the pain of
exposure and hunger incessant. John Ingles
senior's account of his mother's journey is
horrific:
They freequantly in
passing up & down those streams to find a
passage when they found the river made a bend
& point of ridgesÉ wood attempt to cross
these points of riges to shorten their distance
and by being woorn down by fateigue &
starvation wood have to pule themselves up by
the srubs & bushes till they got to the top
and to decend they wood slide all the way down
Under These defiqualteys and nothing to sustain
nature but what they picked up in the woods such
as black walnuts grapes pawpaws etc. & very
often so pushed with hunger that they wood dig
up roots & eate that they knew nothing of.
Their journey was made
easier for a short time by the discovery of an
abandoned cornfield and horse. Carrying as much
corn as they could, the two women took turns
riding the horse, from whose neck a bell
jangled. The horse wasn't with them for long:
Crossing a tributary of the Ohio River on a
logjam, the women watched in horror as the
animal slipped between the logs up to its
stifle, mortally injured.
What were these two
starving women up against, once they reached the
New River Gorge? Realize that it's called the
Grand Canyon of the East, that to fall from the
sheer cliffs is to fall into waters that the
West Virginia Indians called The River of Death.
It was snowing, and the women were by now
virtually naked and shoeless, sleeping in
hollowed-out logs under scanty blankets of dry
leaves, their bodies racked with bloody flux.
Twice, half-mad from pain
and hunger, the Old Dutch Woman tried to kill
Mary Ingles with the intent to cannibalize her.
Because she was by far the younger, Mary fought
her off both times. After the second murder
attempt, Mary managed to put the New River
between them for protection. But her sense of
decency required her to stay within shouting
distance of the old woman.
Mary was now about 30
miles from Draper's Meadows but faced the most
difficult part of her journey. She had already
scaled 1,500-foot sheer cliffs, and another
loomed in front of her: Anvil Rock.
It took Mary Ingles two
days to climb that rock and make her way down
the other side. Where she was found by Adam
Harmon and his sons.
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Ingles
Ferry, early 1900s.
William Ingles licensed the ferry in 1762 in
Pulaski County, Va. Its operation was
interrupted from 1842-1864 by a bridge. It then
ran until 1948, when the ferry sank.
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After several days of
convalescence, Harmon took Mary to Draper's
Meadows, which they found deserted because of
"an Indian alarm." They continued on
to Dunkard Bottom Fort, where "Mrs. Ingles
had, with glad surprise, a joyful meeting with
such of her friends as were present at the
fort."
But her husband, you ask.
What about William Ingles, for whom Mary had
traveled more than 800 miles (including many
detours and much backtracking) on foot?
Ironically, William Ingles and John Draper,
Mary's brother, were in Tennessee and Georgia,
seeking news through friendly Cherokees of their
loved ones. Their mission, Hale reports,
"had been fruitless, and they were
returning, sad, disconsolate, despairing, almost
hopeless."
With great restraint,
William and Mary Ingles' great-grandson
describes their eventual reunion this way:
"Such a meeting,
under such circumstances, and after all that had
occurred since they last parted, nearly five
months before, may be imagined, but can not be
described. I shall not attempt it."
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Cabin
foundations
These are the remains of the cabin built by Mary
Draper and William Ingles after Mary's return.
The site is near the stage of "The Long Way
Home" outdoor drama.
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Mary Ingles went on to
bear four more children: John, Mary, Susan and
Rhoda. After living in Bedford County for
several years and narrowly escaping yet another
Indian massacre, William and Mary returned to
Montgomery County and operated Ingles' Ferry
across the New River, accumulating large
landholdings on both sides of the river. Though
William died in 1782 at 53, Mary lived until
1815, dying at the advanced age of 83. Son John
built her "a proper house" near the
ferry along the Stagecoach Road, Mary continued
to live in the windowless log home that her
husband had built for them, saying she felt
safer there. Recently, the stones from the
chimney of that house were used to erect a
monument to her in the West Radford Cemetery.
And what came of sons
Thomas and George, sister-in-law Bettie, and the
Old Dutch Woman? After a failed escape attempt,
Bettie Draper resigned herself to life with the
Indians and became well-known for her medical
skills. After six years, she was ransomed from
the Shawnees in 1761 and lived out her days with
her husband at Draper's Meadows.
George died in Indian
captivity without ever seeing his mother again.
But Thomas was returned to
"civilization" at the age of 17, after
several failed attempts by his parents to find
him. However, "the habits of civilized life
were not pleasing to him." Thomas was given
to long absences from home, returning to the
woods and Indian ways. He was sent to
Charlottesville, where he studied with Dr.
Thomas Walker and, it's said, he met many of the
Founding Fathers.
Thomas married; he and his
family followed the frontier westward.
Ironically, his own family was attacked by
Indians in 1781, two of his children killed and
his wife Elenor tomahawked so severely that a
surgeon removed 13 pieces of skull from her
head.
The Old Dutch Woman, left
on her own after her second murderous attempt
against Mary Ingles, was fortunate enough to
find a deserted hunters' camp several days after
Mary's rescue and gorged herself on the
abandoned food. Adam Harmon and his sons found
her (at Mary's insistence) and brought her back
to Dunkard Bottom Fort, where she and Mary
"had a Joyful meeting." She found a
ride north to Winchester and then traveled home
to Pennsylvania.
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The
Smokehouse.
Lewis Ingles Jeffries stands in front of the
smokehouse of the Ingles family farm, the main
house of which was built in the 1890s by Mary's
son John.
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What does it matter, this
story of tenacity and survival? Why are people
still fascinated by the story of Mary Draper
Ingles? Why does Tamarack Industries of Beckley,
W.Va., think enough of Mary to manufacture and
market pewter figurines of her? Why has a West
Virginia hiking club taken the name "The
Mary Ingles Trail Blazers," made its
mission the maintenance of the Mary Draper
Ingles Trail in the lower Kanawha Valley, and
staged a living history presentation in late
September?
Ingles'
great-great-great-granddaughter suggests a
couple of theories beyond the obvious.
"My nephew attributes
it to feminism," Roberta Ingles Steele
says. "Maybe it's an outgrowth of our
maturing sense of history," she adds.
Steele (along with a niece
and nephew) still own the land on which Ingles'
Ferry and Stagecoach Road was built, across the
New River from the town of Radford. The
weathered Ingles Ferry Tavern, where Roberta's
aunts lived in the 19th century, is now home to
pigeons and mice. There was talk a few years
back about reopening the ferry as an attraction,
even some start-up money, says Steele. Nothing
came of it.
Roberta's cousin, Lewis
Ingles (Buddy) Jeffries, lives across the river
from the ferry site on his family's farm, just
above the amphitheater in which "The Long
Way Home" has been performed for the past
27 years. Buddy Jeffries was drawn back to his
homeplace after a long career in the military.
In addition to owning the rights to "The
Long Way Home," Jeffries spends his time
repairing fences, raising beef cattle, and
restoring the house in which he grew up.
Built by John Ingles in
1789, Jeffries' home is one of three remaining
in Montgomery County bult prior to 1800 in frame
rather than log.
"Using more modern
and elegant building materials was my ancestor's
way of getting this part of Virginia out of the
frontier mentality,"Jeffires says.
There's a certain irony to
Mary Draper Ingles' son setting out to eliminate
the frontier mentality -- the very mentality
that Mary Draper Ingles embodied in her
tenacity, resourcefulness and strength.
Still, I think she must
have approved roundly, America was built by
tough people looking to the guture. Thenotion of
progress -- the steady movement toward a goal --
lay at the heart of American expansion, in all
of its glory and all of its horror. And Mary
Draper Ingles' goal that bitterly cold,
late-November day -- to cover the last few miles
of her return to Draper's Meadows -- was made
precisely in that fasion. Step by step.
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