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Fall
Foliage RVing |
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An RV offers an ideal way
to see fall foliage along the Blue Ridge Parkway and
else-where. The generally higher vantage point and ease
of maneuvering on the parkway and at pulloffs make it
popular with both first-timers and veterans. We can't
wait to rent another RV this fall (and we might even
have bought one by then).
But because of this popularity with RVers and car
drivers, the parkway
can get crowded during peak leaf- peeping periods. RVers would do well to
time
their trips for weekdays, rather than weekends, when
the parkway and camp-grounds are much less crowded.
It's also generally less crowded during the end of
prime viewing times, when the crowds have decreased
but the colors are just as dramatic. |

Tent
campers turned RV'ers. |

Rural quiet. The parkway runs past Glendale Springs,
N.C. where the Glendale Springs Inn housed parkway engineers
in the 1930s.
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A curve in the
road. Meadow and forest meet constantly along the parkway,
as at this spot in
Ashe County, N.C. near Milepost 250. |

Iron Mine Hollow. The
parkway's 469 miles reach
a high elevation of 3,950' and a low
of 650' where the James River cuts through the mountains.
Countless overlooks along the way provide perches over hollows
and valley views.
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I
recently tried RVing for the first time. My
little tent is sure going to get lonely during future forays
into the Blue Ridge Mountains. As a long-time tent camper and
fan of Blue Ridge Parkway road trips, the idea of trying an RV
for the first time on one of America's prettiest roads had
some definite appeals. The ease of driving the parkway made
maneuvering a big "rig" less daunting, while the
conveniences of camping with a mobile bedroom, kitchen and
other modern amenities seemed like an ideal way to enjoy all
the parkway has to offer.
RVing is
exploding in the United States and it's not just with the
retired set.
Last year, new RV shipments totaled an incredible 292,700,
which was a 20-year record. "The industry is now
benefiting from an influx of baby boomers into the RV
ownership ranks," says David Humphreys, president of the
Recreation Vehicle Industry Association (RVIA). "Like the
previous generation of buyers, boomers are finding that RVs
offer unique convenience, comfort, value and opportunities for
family bonding."
Being a baby boomer myself, those figures were enough to
convince me to give RVing a try (but on an easy stretch of
road like the Blue Ridge Parkway). In researching how to try
RVing, my first discovery was that renting is a convenient and
ideal way to start.
Several
national companies offer rental options, as do many local
dealers. The nation's largest rental company, Cruise America,
has more than 100 centers throughout the U.S. Another national
rental chain, El Monte RV, has 23 outlets. Dozens of local
dealers in the rental business carry fleets of five to 50
vehicles, while a growing number of campground operators now
offer on-site rentals.
We opted for a
Shasta Travelmaster mini motorhome. Their 28-foot version
features a queen-sized bed in the rear and a double bed over
the cab, as well as additional fold-down sleeping for larger
families or groups. There's a full bathroom and separate
shower, as well as standard features: a stereo; a dinette; a
fully functional kitchen, with three-burner stove,
refrigerator and microwave; a monitoring system that tells you
everything you need to know about the RV's numerous functions;
and an incredible amount of storage. The Travelmaster and
other models are available in shorter and longer versions, but
this was an ideal length for us to try.
Shasta is owned
by Coachmen, one of the legendary names in RVing. Of course,
Coachmen and other well-known companies like Winnebago feature
a wide choice of offerings, ranging from "conversion
vans" and folding camper trailers to giant buses that are
complete homes on wheels. We learned about all of the options
while visiting a local dealer, which is a great place to
start.
This initial
dealer visit and a few test drives led to our cruising up
Afton Mountain to the start of the famed parkway. Within
minutes on I-64, I became comfortable with driving this yacht
on wheels. It handled just like a car, though it took a bit of
time to get used to the length when changing lanes. A veteran
Virginia-based RVer had recommended that we stop for gas and
provisions before hitting the parkway, which saved us both
time and money during the rest of our trip.
The powerful
Ford Triton V10 engine had no trouble getting us up the
mountain, which bode well for the climbs to come. Once on the
parkway proper, it became obvious that this was the perfect
place to try RVing in a non- threatening atmosphere. The lower
speed limits (35 or 45 mph) and limited traffic made it easy
to grow more comfortable with driving an RV and pulling off
for the numerous overlooks and other attractions along the
way.
Perhaps unlike
any other road in the world, the Blue Ridge Parkway offers one
of the ultimate road trips for RVers of all experience levels.
It meets all of the prerequisites in resounding fashion: only
two lanes of traffic, historical sites, friendly and
interesting people, great scenery and many places to stop for
the night.
Since its
inception, the Blue Ridge Parkway has been called America's
favorite drive. It was authorized in the 1930s as a
Depression-era public works project, but was a half-century in
the making. It was the nation's first (and ultimately the
longest) rural parkway. It connects the Shenandoah National
Park in Virginia (the Skyline Drive) with the Great Smoky
Mountains National Park in North Carolina. The total distance
is 469 miles, making it an ideal three-or four-day trip in an
RV (though campgrounds make it easy to take longer).
The Blue Ridge
Parkway drive officially starts at Rockfish Gap, where you
find the 0 Milepost marker. These markers become the welcome
signs of your location on the drive and run progressively each
mile southward along the parkway.
The first major
stop is indicative of what the drive has to offer. The
Humpback Rocks Visitor Center is often the first taste of the
Blue Ridge Parkway for southbound drivers and it's a great
place for an RVer to stop.
The visitor
centers, camping facilities and concession system on the
parkway are excellent, with services varying with the season.
They offer great places to get maps, ask questions and learn
about campfire talks, nature walks, slide programs and much
more.
The Humpback
Rocks area features an interesting self-guided tour through a
reconstructed mountain farmstead. The short but steep hike up
to Humpback Rocks (at Milepost 6.1) is well worth the heavy
breathing for a breath-taking view of the area. It's only 3/4
of a mile to the top.
Back on the
Blue Ridge Parkway, the views begin. One of the beauties of
RVing is that the driver and passengers generally sit higher
than they do in a car, thus providing much better views of the
surrounding landscape.
If you stopped
at every awe-inspiring view, you'd never make it to the end.
There are pull-offs at most of the best overlooks, but you're
also allowed to just pull over on the shoulder as long as your
vehicle is completely off the road. The speed limit is 45
miles per hour or less, and most visitors tend to go slowly.
Wooden guard rails subtly protect vehicles and people from the
steep drop-offs.
Some possible
stops along this stretch include: Ravens Roost, featuring
vistas of the Shenandoah River and Torry Mountain; Sherando
Lake, a recreational lake in the George Washington National
Forest; Whetstone Ridge, which once provided mountain folks
with fine-grained sharpening stone; and Yankee Horse Parking
Area, where a hard-riding Union soldier's horse supposedly
fell and had to be shot (there's now a reconstructed spur of
an old logging railroad).
Between
Mileposts 58 and 64, Otter Creek runs down the Blue Ridge,
following the road to the James River. Otters don't play along
the creek anymore, but lots of people do. This section of the
drive features a year-round campground, a visitor center, a
self-guided nature trail, a restored lock and canal system, a
restaurant, a gift shop and the lowest elevation on the entire
parkway (649 feet).
Otter Creek has
the first of nine developed campgrounds along the parkway (if
the one you select is closed or full, there are many more just
off the road). All of the campgrounds have tent and RV sites
(no water or electrical hookups, so first-timers quickly learn
about using the generator). Later, we learned how simple it is
to hook your RV up for water and electricity, which most
commercial campgrounds provide. Otter Creek does have RV
sewage stations and we learned how easy these were to use
(trust me, it's not nearly as bad as you may think).
The campgrounds
are generally open from early May to late October, depending
on the weather. They don't take reservations and they're not
usually needed (except on summer holiday weekends and fall
foliage season, when first-time RVers should avoid the parkway
anyway). When we drove the parkway in early spring we were
often the only campers, except for the helpful campground
hosts.
Peaks of Otter,
Roanoke Mountain and Rocky Knob are the rest of the Virginia
camping options, with the number of RV sites ranging from 24
to 62. In North Carolina, the first option is Doughton Park,
followed by Julian Price Memorial Park, Linville Falls,
Crabtree Meadows and Mt. Pisgah (the southernmost and highest
elevation campground). Our favorite camping night was at
Doughton Park, where the campground host told us about the
"Honeymoon Suite" (isolated campsite T9, where the
sunset was stupendous and we were alone with the parkway and
our RV).
Once
established in a campground for the night, we established a
ritual of a short hike, followed by a fire (the campsites
typically have fire rings) and some quality time outdoors.
Then, we headed inside to our home (and kitchen) on wheels for
a gourmet meal. One of the beauties of RVing is the ability to
place provisions in the refrigerator, freezer and ample
cabinet space. The stove, oven and microwave made virtually
any meal a possibility.
Our next stop
along the parkway was popular Peaks of Otter. Along with great
camping, the Peaks of Otter area accommodates with some
serious hiking to lose a few of the pounds gained cooking
gourmet meals in your RV. Head to the Peaks of Otter Visitor
Center for a detailed map and information from the very
friendly staff (it must be the mountain air). Some good bets
are Sharp Top Trail (1.6 steep miles for a 360-degree view),
easy Elk Run Loop Trail, strenuous Harkening Hill Loop Trail,
Johnson Farm Trail and Flat Top Trail back to Fallingwater
Cascades.
The parkway
continues south and the spectacular views roll by
continuously. Look for the Appalachian Trail Overlook around
Milepost 100. The famed Appalachian Trail is a 2,100-mile
hiking "path" along the ridge of the Appalachian
Mountains, stretching from Maine to Georgia. It runs through
14 states and the Virginia section (544 miles) is the longest
stretch.
Roanoke is
situated very close to the Blue Ridge Parkway and serves as an
ideal stopover if you need a civilization fix. Other quaint
stopover towns near the parkway include Waynesboro, Lexington,
Lynchburg and Galax.
Mabry Mill is
just down the road. This often-photographed waterpowered mill
was operated by E.B. Mabry from 1910 to 1935. The self-guided
walking tour includes his gristmill, sawmill, blacksmith shop
and other outdoor exhibits. In the summer and fall, visitors
will often find old-time skills being demonstrated.
Nearby, the
Mabry Mill Coffee & Craft Shop offers refreshments and
stoneground cornmeal. Just down the parkway, Meadows of Dan
offers gas, food, lodging and shopping, country-style.
The rest of the
Virginia portion of the Blue Ridge Parkway is steeped in
views, gaps and history. For views, pull off at the Groundhog
Mountain Parking Overlook, with an observation tower
simulating an old tobacco barn. For gaps, head to the quaint
town of Fancy Gap. For history, check out Puckett Cabin, the
home of Orelena Hawks Puckett, a storied local midwife.
The views, gaps
and history don't stop at the Virginia state line. North
Carolina features some spectacular scenery and sightseeing of
its own.
Some of the
best views in the state include Fox Hunters Paradise, Doughton
Park, The Lump, Linn Cove Viaduct, Linville Falls, the Mt.
Pisgah area and Richland Balsam Overlook (which, at 6,053
feet, features views from the highest point on the parkway).
Along with these pulloffs, North Carolina hiking options
include the Tanawha Trail, the Craggy Gardens area, Graveyard
Fields, Devil's Courthouse and Waterrock Knob.
History also
abounds in this rugged area. The Cone Manor House and Moses H.
Cone Memorial Park provide one of the most interesting stops
on the parkway. This huge and historic estate features old
carriage trails that are now ideal for hiking, as well as the
well-run Parkway Craft Center, where you can buy crafts and
watch occasional demonstrations. Other easy stops for RVers
include the fascinating Museum of North Carolina Minerals and
the Folk Art Center. As with most pulloffs along the parkway,
there's typically easy parking for RVs.
South of
Asheville, there are a ton of tunnels (heights are clearly
marked, but even the tallest RVs make it through them) and
some of the highest points and pulloffs on the parkway. After
Richland Balsam, the drive haltingly descends to 2,020 feet
and the end of the parkway. Just after the end, RVers can head
to the Great Smoky Mountains National Park on U.S. 441 for
another great drive.
But for my
money, the Blue Ridge Parkway is the perfect road for both
virgin and veteran RVers. We loved our rental Shasta and hated
to return it. But the experience made us hungry for other RV
adventures in the Blue Ridge Mountains. Just look for us in
another big rig at some campground in the mountains.
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