Maryland’s Sugarloaf Mountain
Preserved by a brother and sister in the first half of the 20th century, this National Natural Landmark and former Civil War lookout offers more than 13 miles of trails including this loop, which climbs five peaks.
Sugarloaf Mountain is such a significant feature on the rolling terrain of Maryland’s landscape that it is visible for miles around it.
A monadnock – a residual hill or mountain that stands alone above a surrounding peneplain – Sugarloaf rises more than 800 feet above the farmland below. Its upper layer is composed primarily of quartzite, an extremely erosion-resistant material that was formed by compression about 500 million years ago. In contrast, the land around it is believed to be mostly metamorphic rock, much more susceptible to the erosive effects of wind and water.
Whereas many places in the U.S. remain in their natural state because of conservationist groups, the preservation of Sugarloaf is the result of efforts on the part of only two people, Gordon Strong and his sister Louise.
Seeing the mountain for the first time in 1902, Gordon recognized its significance and spent the next few decades purchasing as much of it as possible. In 1946, he created the nonprofit Stronghold, Inc., to ensure the mountain would continue to serve for “enjoyment and education in an appreciation of natural beauty.”
Continuing in the tradition established by the Strongs, no entrance fee is charged. Funds for maintenance and improvement do not come from government sources, but from a modest trust fund, membership dues from those who wish to support the corporation and gifts and bequests from people interested in protecting the mountain.
More than 13 miles of trails enable visitors to see what the Strongs found so intriguing and attractive about the mountain, and why it was named a National Natural Landmark in 1969. I’ve walked all of the pathways, but find myself most drawn to a loop network of 7.5 miles that provides a number of soaring views as it rises to the summit, crosses the mountain’s crest to four other peaks and descends onto its lower flanks before rising once more.
Start by walking from the parking lot to ascend along the A. M. Thomas Trail. This amazing set of stone steps was constructed by Thomas, the first superintendent of Stronghold, Inc. The huge quartzite boulders beside the route are covered in an array of lichens and mosses. Spreading across the surface of a rock, the lichen anchors itself by way of minute rootlike holdfasts, which pry loose small bits of the rock. In addition, a weak acid emitted by the plant chemically dissolves minerals, hastening additional wear.
The sweeping vista of land to the south and west of the mountain from the 1,282-foot summit makes it easy to understand why both Union and Confederate troops used Sugarloaf as a signal station and lookout during the Civil War. The Monadnock Trail delivers you to the Bill Lambert Overlook for a peek at the terrain you will be traversing along the main crest of Sugarloaf Mountain and the adjoining White Rocks ridgeline as you turn onto the Northern Peaks Trail. You’ll cross the first of the Northern Peaks at .9 mile, and the second at 1.6 miles, where an outcrop provides a limited view.
After crossing the Saddleback Horse Trail, the route becomes rougher and steeper as it passes over the third and fourth peaks before coming to the Olympian view from White Rocks at 3.9 miles. This is the lowest point you have been at any of the overlooks, so it’s now possible to make out in greater detail the four lanes of I-270, the lands of the Monocacy National Battlefield and the buildings, houses and farmlands of the Monocacy Valley.
Dropping off the mountain and crossing Ephram Road, leave the Northern Peaks Trail and follow the yellow blazes of the Saddleback Horse Trail. As it passes through a forest that it is healing itself after being logged, you might notice a pleasing fragrance rising from the grassy strip in the middle of the route. Members of the mint family are such interesting plants that it warrants getting down on hands and knees to observe them. It may be hard for anyone other than a dedicated wildflower enthusiast to be able to name or differentiate the scores of mint species, however, you can usually identify a mint by its aroma, tiny flower petals, and by the fact that almost all mints have square stems, a rare trait in the plant world.
Rising back onto the mountainside, bear left onto the combined Saddleback Horse and Mountain Loop Trails to return to your car at 7.5 miles, now better able to understand Gordon Strong when he stated, “…those who appreciate natural beauty will be better people, people who will treat each other better.”
Leonard M. Adkins has written more than a dozen books on the outdoors and travel. Find more about him at www.habitualhiker.com.
When You go
The Hike: A moderately strenuous 7.5-mile circuit along the crest and lower flanks of a monadnock.
Directions: South of Frederick, take I-270 exit 22, follow Md. 109 for 3 miles, turn right onto Md. 95, go an additional 2.4 miles, turn into the Sugarloaf Mountain entrance and follow the mountain road to its end.
Trail Information: Stronghold, Inc., 7901 Comus Rd., Dickerson, MD 20842; 301/874-2024; www.sugarloafmd.com
For “50 Hikes in Maryland,” contact Countryman Press, 1-800-245-4151; www.countrymanpress.com.
DON'T LEAVE YET, THERE’S MORE TO DO
Pedal Power. Mountain bikers, you have not been forgotten. Bikes are permitted on the Saddleback Horse Trail between Memorial Day and Labor Day, Monday Through Friday. For an easier ride, head a few miles south to the C&O Canal, 184.5 miles of flat terrain along the Potomac River from Cumberland, Md. to Washington, D.C. Highlights on the canal close to Sugarloaf include the Monocacy River Aqueduct, Victorian Railroad Station at Point of Rocks and the chance to ride White’s Ferry, the only remaining ferry across the Potomac River.
Paddle Power. Rent a kayak or canoe from River & Trail Outfitters (301/695-5177 or 1-888-I GO PLAY; www.rivertrail.com) in Knoxville to ply the Potomac. Better yet, take one of their guided trips and learn about the natural and human history of the areas you pass through.
Petroleum Power. The Monocacy National Battlefield (301/662-3515; www.nps.gov/mono/mo_visit.htm) preserves the site of the last Southern push into Union territory. Although Confederate General Jubal Early’s troops won the battle on July 9, 1864, they were delayed long enough that Federal reinforcements arrived to block the way to Washington, D.C. A pamphlet available at the visitor center is keyed to sites along a driving tour that enables you to recreate the battle in your mind.
Paranormal Power. Frederick is one of Maryland’s most historic and architecture-rich cities. The steeples, spires, and towers of more than a dozen buildings provide one of its most photographed scenes, its skyline. Muralist William M. Cochran spent five years transforming a plain concrete bridge into what appears to be an old, ivy-covered stone bridge. Even standing next to it, your eyes are convinced the stones and other items are truly three-dimensional. Cochran also painted the equally impressive Angels in Architecture murals in the downtown district. Just in time for Halloween, period-costumed tour guides of the Candlelight Ghost Tours (301/694-7433; www.marylandghosttours.com) take you through the town’s streets and alleyways to relate paranormal stories based on historic fact. —LA
